One of the great strengths of the Olympus OM system was its Flash units.
There were three: The T20, T32 and T45.All offered flash metered off the film plane from the camera itself with the OM2(n), OM2SP, OM4(Ti) and OM40 bodies.This breakthrough occurred as far back as 1976 which was something many other systems were late in introducing.All the flash units take the number from the Guide number they produce (GN).The T20 does not do manual flash (the QF310 unit was really the cheap flash for the OM10/20/30 and OM1 models) but the other two do.
The T45 was a 'Hammerhead' unit for professionals like the Metz models and can be used horizontal or vertical while still 'bouncing' the flash.
The most popular unit was the T32 pictured.
I got mine around November 1996 used with a 6 month guarantee.
The output of GN32 is ideal for group shots or for photographic models with which is help by the fact the reflector can be tilted up for bouncing the flash or even down 15degrees to get a bit more light on small objects.
You can in fact link two or more flash units using special cables and maybe mounting the second flash on a supporting column while retaining the off the film flash metering for more even illumination of small objects.
Another rather useful feature of this flash gun is you can turn around the 'calculator scale' at the back of it to change from off the film metering to manual flash so you can use it on any camera that lacks Though The Lens flash technology such as my OM10 or even the Minolta XD7 (although on the XD7 you have to set the flash sync speed on the camera).
You are give a choice of three (yes really) apertures to use with a sensor on the flashgun controlling the output plus options of full output (with a aperture scale for the film speed you are using) and 1/4 output.
You can get a Flash Extender that helps direct the flash output for lenses with longer Focal Lengths although I found it was fine as is from 28 through 105mm that covers groups and head and shoulder portraits.
In all respects I found this flash unit ideal for all my flash needs with plenty of output to photograph winter processions like carolling, family events and models with the advantage it would work on any camera I owned.
Sometimes system manufactures Flashes seem overpriced compared with independent so-called after market equivalents but this one is well worth the modest price charged. Indeed I have seen Minolta MD camera owners sporting them atop of theirs.
Well when the first OM4 stopped working right in 2003 I picked up this instead - I was a bit short on funds at the time - but I could live without the spot meter.This model was introduced in 1985 but only remained in production for a couple of years.
It has a funny cross between a spot meter and all around (centre weighted) metering called ESP. It works fairly well comparing the centre spot to the outer areas balancing the two although it assumes the subject is in the middle of the frame.The flash is Through the lens like the OM4 which was always a good idea It also has a Program mode for quick picture taking.
The chief minus is that like all the double digit OM models the viewfinder only covers 93% rather than 97% of the OM4/3/2/1 models and it doesn't have a spot meter option al a OM2SP
Inexplicably, it died on me recently (2009) but I've acquired now (2015) another that appears to work okay and is in better physical condition.
R.I.P. OM40 you were all right really.
Well as I said I considered getting a better specified came body in 1996 and actually I did!
In October 1996 I was privileged to have a large sum of money come my way that i could use to get one and some system accessories with.
Give that the price of the the newer version of this camera - the OM4Ti had shot up from GBP £790 to £1200 in an matter of months even what I had was not gonna cover the cost.
I decided I would by used as things such as focusing screens for this camera could be retro fitted (In fact many change them for special applications) so I could get something almost new for far less.
The two main differences between the OM4Ti and the original OM4 introduced 1983 was the Titanium metal body and the ability only with the newer 280 flash unit to have flash at all speeds rather than a maximum 1/60th of a second.
As flash wasn't a major consideration for me I bought an OM4 and had the retailer fit a new 1-13 focusing screen for me that saved my something like £800 alone.
I wrote a piece on this for my main blog so I won't repeat myself too much here.
There are two really good features to this camera.
The first being it has spot metering meaning you can take a reading from a small area of the picture where a traditional all around metering system may under or over expose your main subject and use that instead.
It's hard to explain the next bit but having done that it can remember the Exposure Value it saw while allowing you to set any combination of shutter speed and aperture settlings manually that will expose the film to that exposure value by hand. It can remember the exposure value for up to one hour after taking the reading. In addition it can take up to eight such readings and average them to if you feel it will help with very tricky lighting.
Many photographers find this incredibly useful as I did on vacation taking pictures inside a Steam Tram balancing the gloom on the inside with the bright light streaming around the windows.
The pictures I took amazed people!
The other area is Flash Photography.
Flash can be harsh looking but sometimes you have to use if either outdoors on a gloomy day, for family groups or taking pictures of models where you want everything pin sharp.
One weakness of older flash technology is the output of the flash gun doesn't match exactly with the light falling on your film especially when you bounce it to make things look a bit more natural.
With this camera the flash gun can be controlled by the cameras own meter putting a end to this problem at a stroke.
I found this camera truly exceptional for the quality of pictures it could take as well as its' ease of use (using it on automatic is just as easy as the OM10).
My original developed a fault several years ago so I did replace it with a cheaper model however when that died on me recently, I bought another OM4 used.
The story started way back in September of 1996 when finding my trusty pocket camera had issues and an ancient Russia Zenith E was just too hard for me to use, I saw one of these at a local camera store going cheap.
I knew of Olympus as Pop had gone through a OM30 that purported to aid focusing (but wasn't that good at it) and had settled on a OM2SP afterwards.
This model was introduced in 1979 being discontinued in 1987 coming in Chrome and Black finishes.
Anyway money changed hands for it and the 50mm 'Standard' lens. I took it on vacation to evaluate being a believe in the 'give it a real job and see how it performs' school of thought.
The OM10 is by design amateur camera - that's to say it's for the everyday Joanne or John who just wants good pictures with simple controls - rather than loaded with lots of features and a build to take Power Winders together with day in and out professional use in all weathers.
So as standard it is automatic exposure only with a setting for Flash units that are not for Olympus and the Flash is exposure is set by hand rather than automatically in the camera.
What stuck me was the evenness of the exposures because as basic as it is, it tells you first what shutter speed it is likely to set based on the 'F' stop settings on your lens in connection with how bright it is but makes the final decision during the actual exposure so if the sun just went in after pressing the shutter (to take the picture) it adjusts to it. It is what Olympus called "AutoDynamic Metering".
The results were better than expected and as it happened I got the MA1 Manual Adapter too.
This is a little unit you plug in on the front that when you set the exposure control to Manual Adapter enables you to set exposures by hand.
Let's say I don't believe in setting exposures by hand as a religion as if you use the settings the camera indicates you get pretty much the same result for more effort (plus the automatics on this camera are more accurate).
Where you might use it is if there is big difference between how much light the main subject requires and say a very bright background (or for using certain filters) pointing the camera toward what you wish to take the reading from and using the manual setting to lock it.
This meant I had as much control over how my pictures would come out as the main camera but in something much lighter to carry about.
The other thing was the lens was small of really fine quality and easy to adjust from the front.
After picking up a Wide Angle 28mm lens I was so impressed that I considered getting another better specified model.
Comments: I would recommended without any hesitation this camera body to anyone who wants to learn traditional film photography as it is as capable as many others with 'snob appeal' and higher prices.
Mine as pictured has the MA1 Manual Adapter fitted on the right hand side. If yours doesn't you'll find them for sale in photographic stores and on Ebay.
